We weren’t able to take the dogs into the National Park that surrounds Uluru, but we found that there were several good vantage points close to the Resort from which we could all enjoy the sunrise and sunset - with a glass of wine in one hand and a bag of chippies in the other. Uluru is one of the great natural wonders of the world over 500 million years old. It is a sandstone monolith 348 metres high, but with most of its bulk beneath the surface. It is the physical and spiritual heart of Australia and reflects the rays of the sun with a magic red glow.
After we had seen the sunrise and sunset over a couple of days, we travelled from Uluru towards Kings Canyon, a scenic drive of outback landscapes that took us back along the Lasseter Highway for 130kms and then turned off for another 160kms along the Luritja Highway into the Watarrka National Park. We stopped at Kings Creek Station, about 40kms SE of the actual Kings Canyon. This was a working Cattle Station as well as a campsite, and also had horses, camels, quad bikes and helicopter flights on tap. We were very pleasantly surprised by the campsite area which was beautifully laid out with undercover eating areas, fire-places and grassy areas for each camper, yet still with an outback/middle of nowhere atmosphere. We deemed this one to be in the top class of campsites we have loved.
On our first evening there was a talk about the area by one of the Rangers which was excellent. It gave us an overview of the unique diversity of the Watarrka National Park with some stunning photography. The next day we eagerly embarked on our walks along Kathleen Creek first and then into Kings Canyon Creek. The dogs were allowed to stay in the car park area and vans in the National Park which was a plus for us and we could explore in relays. The Range that includes Kings Canyon is called George Gill Range, named after Ernest Giles’ brother-in-law who assisted with funds for the original expedition to this area in 1872. The George Gill Range is about 75kms long and the highest point is 900m above sea level. The Range is made up of Mereenie and Carmichael sandstone and of course the Canyon itself was formed by water running through a crack and freezing and expanding over millions of years. The mighty chasm cleaves the earth to a depth of 270 metres.
We very much enjoyed the atmosphere and scenery: the Red River Gums, the amazing feathery Desert Oaks that grow straight and tall until their roots reach the water table when they branch out into huge canopies, the Mulga pigeons that look like ridiculous German Soldiers strutting about with a little feather quiff, the fantastic colours of blue sky, the huge red boulders and soaring ranges and every shade of green, lime, olive, grey, teal you can imagine. Apparently there are over 600 species of plants and many native animals, some rare. It was a place well worth visiting.
Our next stop was at a little rest area we had already stayed at on our way to Uluru. Here we sadly parted with our friend Christine and doggie Jack in their ‘mini-mi’ Kea campervan as they were returning to Alice Springs to drop off their van and catch a flight back to Sydney, whilst we were continuing our adventure and heading south down the Stuart Highway to Coober Pedy, still travelling on the ‘Explorers Way’. We had really enjoyed having their company for that part of our journey and will miss them lots.
This part of the Stuart Highway is quite amazing - real desert stunted scrub and desolation and wild cool winds stirring up the dust and pebbles. The scenery is endlessly flat and the ground covered with ‘gibbers’ that have packed together to make the surface as hard as road fill. Impossible to imagine how the roots of any plant can push through this! It was both fascinating and horrific.
Muffin decided to throw a wobbly and was very agitated with the bumps over cattle grates and rough road surfaces. She had clearly had enough and needed a lot of cuddling and reassuring. One of us had to sit in the back of the van with her on this leg of the journey and she gradually calmed down. Poor little mite. The other two doggies take it all in their stride and just seem so relaxed in comparison.
As we got closer to Coober Pedy there suddenly appeared thousands of small mounds of dirt and small areas sectioned off by Opal prospectors. Some little mines are still working but many have been abandoned. In 1913, 14-year old Willie Hutchinson was the first to find a shimmering gemstone known as Opal in Coober Pedy. The name comes from the Aboriginal word “kupa” (white man) and “piti” (hole). Mining claims are limited to one per person and can measure no more than 100m by 50m so it is the preserve of individuals rather than mining companies. Since then miners from more than 50 nations have arrived in Coober Pedy to find their fortune – so we were going to do the same!
Click here to see some photos:
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| 55 Uluru |
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| 56 Kings Creek_Canyon |
